
You may have noticed that I don't often review pilsners on this site. What is a pilsner, you ask? It is a Czech beer style that is the basis for most of our American domestic beer (Budweiser, for example, is a pilsner). Pilsners are characterized by their clear yellow color (something that Greg Koch would probably label "fizzy yellow beer") and thin, dry taste. They're the beer equivalent of a mild white wine.
But, I thoroughly enjoyed the other offerings in Harpoon's Leviathan series, so I picked it up anyway.
It pours like the perfect beer commercial - clear yellow with dancing bubbles and a fine, rising head that spills a little bit over the edge of the glass. But that's where the similarities to Budweiser end. The smell is flowery, hoppy and absolutely inviting. The taste is thicker in the mouth (more syrupy) than any other pilsner I've ever tried, and has a nice level of malty smoothness. Its finish is slightly dry, but not as much as I expected. This could be because Harpoon has added quite a bit of malts in here and the alcohol flavor might take away some of the dryness too. For me, that's a good thing, and I enjoyed drinking this a lot.
There is a vague hint of that "beery" taste that I can only describe as what happens to cheap beer when it warms - I don't know where it comes from but its one of the reasons I don't drink domestic beer very often. Maybe its the particular types of malts used that make it a pilsner. I will say that the tiny hint is enough to give it character, without making it a "beer for wussies."
The 9%ABV also speaks to that, and I don't think I've had anything in a long time that's that color and that light packing so much of a punch there. Harpoon has another winner here, and if you thin you know all about pilsners, watch out, this one will change your mind quickly.



